In-car wood, Part the third...

With the split fixed with epoxy, I thought it wise to strengthen the back of the split with some cotton strip (from an old shirt).  This was wetted with resin as was the wood and the strip held in to the sharp inside corner with some cling film and a stick of balsa wood to hold the cloth right into the corner. It was all then taped up to hold it over night.  The wrinkly effect is the cling film finish imparted to surplus resin.  That can all be taken down with scrapers and sandpaper.  In this less than perfect photo. the cotton is the slightly lighter section from the left end towards the right.

Sorry for the rubbish picture, but it's too windy and cold to go outside in the Sun and my camera doesn't take clear pics inside.  I've given up on it.

You can see the little chip of new mahogany that I've also glued into a bit on the edge that had some rot cut out, top left.  That will be disc sanded down and will effectively blend in.

Here, the old screw holes have been plugged with mahogany, to ensure that the re-fixing won't be into old, possibly loose holes.  Also, the lock cut out has been epoxied to seal all surfaces, for strength and water proofing.

On the other side, the pear veneer has been glued on to level the surface with the original Mulliner's veneer.

It has been trimmed all round and the edge of the ply, from which the door is made, has been epoxied to seal it all and to seal the edge of the new veneer.

You can see, even on this lousy picture, how just one application of epoxy has sealed and even shone up the ply edges.  Naturally, this will sand down smooth once the 48 hours final hardening time is up.  After cutting off the plugs and scraping smooth, this side will get some bird's eye maple veneer, so that the inside of the glove box has a nice light appearance to contrast the outside which will be rosewood.  The rest of the weekend will be required to let everything thoroughly harden off.