This is the thing that has been holding me up lately and why I had to have the pleasing relief of the boats in the post below or go mad.
It's a 1956 Corvette SS Sebring. Apparently it did one race and only the one was made.
It's a very strange thing with scalloped sides, an asymmetric bulge and that rocket ship headrest. Then there's those teeth! Ye Gods, those teeth...15 individually keyed pieces of styrene, notched onto a horizontal bar, all backed by a plate that keeps it all together for the poor resin caster who takes this on.
It's the usual 1/32nd scale for a slot racing body.
This was largely made last year, but the vents and all those endless lines of slots on the bonnet, entire back panel and cills had to be done by photo-etching. In recent days of yore I would have drawn them with a pen, laid out in the final style of the fret, drawn maybe 4 times bigger. Then the etchers would have photographed it down to wonderfully crisp images.
But no!...now you have to send a computer file. Well, I don't do push button modelmaking, so it was down to the client to get it done from a few dimensioned sketches from me. That process began last September! I got the p/e finally drawn correctly on some American student's PC last month!
So much for the potential of computers.
Having got the p/e I had to create 10 thou recesses for the separate parts and blend them in to the final surface.
The client is delighted, but that hasn't stopped him getting 3D printed blobs done and some schmuck to clean that dross up, putting the real detail in by hand.
Needless to say, I will NOT be doing any of that nonsense.
With the Skoda rally car finished and the boats done, too, I am now up to date with that stuff, but woefully behind with the model aircraft masters. So tomorrow, the decks will be cleared and out comes the 1/76th scale master of the Pilatus PC12 Bizjet, 1/32nd scale Dragon Rapide and 1/32nd scale Junkers Ju 388 Transkit. The former, fine...the latter, I am NOT looking forward to. I try at all times to avoid toy War, but a man's gotta eat, dammit.
Sunday, 31 August 2014
Thursday, 28 August 2014
Anchors aweigh...
The boats have been finished in a very good time and will be off to N-Drive Productions for a show in early September.
I painted them yesterday and they will go in that self-etch primer, which I paint all non metallic masters in.
The brass structures are for the pot lifting mechanism aft and can be super-detailed by the buyer to his whim.
Hoping that a nice tiny Danforth anchor can be arranged on the photo-etch fret with the portholes for the cruiser.
I painted them yesterday and they will go in that self-etch primer, which I paint all non metallic masters in.
The brass structures are for the pot lifting mechanism aft and can be super-detailed by the buyer to his whim.
Hoping that a nice tiny Danforth anchor can be arranged on the photo-etch fret with the portholes for the cruiser.
Siren has come out rather nicely, I think and should allow for adaptability according to the buyers.
If these are a success, they will be repeated in 7mm scale.
Sunday, 17 August 2014
You can't invent a tree...
I have been having a "comments" conversation with a chap about model trees. I maintain that George Stokes' trees were the best I've ever seen. Gordon Gravett and Tony Hill have written on the subject and are very good. This chap speaks of the Pendlebury Group and Bob Barlow, of whom I can find no trace. And Barry Norman, whose "vegetable concentration camps " on his Lydham Heath didn't impress me even though I saw the actual layout at some show. Unexpectedly, the best generally seem to be made by a couple of model tree companies, though heaven knows what a decent 12" example costs.
And, significantly, they were made by George Stokes' method of twisted wire. Now, I'm sure we can't now get hold of Tiger Moth flying wires, or more correctly, control cables, but any nice wad of wires will do. Fine ones, so that you slowly unravel to get to the last fine bits of twiggery, having gone through trunk, split trunk, limbs and secondary limb groups finally to get busy little groups of fine twigs to which the foliage, if you really MUST have it, is attached.
Stokes modelled winter. Dark skeletons being stifled by creepers. I have seen very few summer trees with a convincing foliage. In fact, to this day, I have seen very few really good trees on model layouts. Most, if compared to a loco or wagon, would be as a tank loco with no underframe detail and a big old motor in the cab driving solid wheels or a wagon with no brakes and and a bogus livery. Nobody, even the R-T-R mob would dare do that these days, yet trees are still blobby green and brown lollipops, often, calamity of calamity, made of lichen! An instantly recognisable awfulness of nature which is suitable for nothing scenically. Surely people can see that at a glance.
Here are some trees on a typical modern model railway:-
And, significantly, they were made by George Stokes' method of twisted wire. Now, I'm sure we can't now get hold of Tiger Moth flying wires, or more correctly, control cables, but any nice wad of wires will do. Fine ones, so that you slowly unravel to get to the last fine bits of twiggery, having gone through trunk, split trunk, limbs and secondary limb groups finally to get busy little groups of fine twigs to which the foliage, if you really MUST have it, is attached.
Stokes modelled winter. Dark skeletons being stifled by creepers. I have seen very few summer trees with a convincing foliage. In fact, to this day, I have seen very few really good trees on model layouts. Most, if compared to a loco or wagon, would be as a tank loco with no underframe detail and a big old motor in the cab driving solid wheels or a wagon with no brakes and and a bogus livery. Nobody, even the R-T-R mob would dare do that these days, yet trees are still blobby green and brown lollipops, often, calamity of calamity, made of lichen! An instantly recognisable awfulness of nature which is suitable for nothing scenically. Surely people can see that at a glance.
Here are some trees on a typical modern model railway:-
Lollipops and bog brushes. But I bet all those locos are bang on.
This what a model tree should look like:-
Note the crows' nests are high? A good winter to come.
It was George who said "you can't invent a tree". He went out and sketched the tree he wanted to depict in scale, measured it, photographed it and made it as accurate as most people make a loco.
George, we miss you still.
The detailed cruiser...
A few hours further on and the cruiser is detailed, with hatches and runners, a bulkhead with panelled doors, a floor, stempost and rubbing strakes.
A quick clean-up and it'll be ready for paint. Now to do the same on the lobster boat.
Thursday, 14 August 2014
"There is absolutely nothing-....
...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats".
Absolutely right, of course. Any boat, doesn't matter. As a one-time subscriber to the superb periodical Wooden Boat, I once read an editorial entitled "A pulling boat down at the town quay". It was on just that subject of having something you could just jump on and enjoy, instead of always working on the big restoration project. Everybody needs a pulling boat (rowing boat/dinghy) down at the town quay.
The two little boat masters I am doing for N-Drive Productions as the first of a range of scenic accessories in both 4 and 7mm scales are coming along nicely.
One is the little wooden high-prow cruiser I showed in an earlier post and the other is a fairly typical lobster boat based on Charlotte of Eyemouth, photographed recently on a visit up to Border country to see my son and grandchildren.
They are both in Ureol (Renshape/Chemiwood). Bandsawed out from rough drawings and then chiselled, filed and sanded to shape. The roof of the cruiser is a separate piece, glued on top with the clerestory a piece glued on to that. Leaving the bottom open, being a waterline model, means it can be cast in one piece. This one will be suitable for any scene, from harbour to canal cruiser.
The wheelhouse of the lobster boat is done in styrene and will be an open topped piece of cast resin with a separate roof. Then separate floors are cast to pop in underneath on both boats.
Various detailing parts will then be done in white metal and photo-etched portholes will finish them off nicely.
The 50p piece gives some scale, especially to the 6 spoke ship's wheel in brass. This will possibly be cast integral with the resin casting as it's too fine to put a spigot on, without it all falling apart. A p/e ring of brass or n/s will be on the fret to finish it off.
Absolutely right, of course. Any boat, doesn't matter. As a one-time subscriber to the superb periodical Wooden Boat, I once read an editorial entitled "A pulling boat down at the town quay". It was on just that subject of having something you could just jump on and enjoy, instead of always working on the big restoration project. Everybody needs a pulling boat (rowing boat/dinghy) down at the town quay.
The two little boat masters I am doing for N-Drive Productions as the first of a range of scenic accessories in both 4 and 7mm scales are coming along nicely.
One is the little wooden high-prow cruiser I showed in an earlier post and the other is a fairly typical lobster boat based on Charlotte of Eyemouth, photographed recently on a visit up to Border country to see my son and grandchildren.
They are both in Ureol (Renshape/Chemiwood). Bandsawed out from rough drawings and then chiselled, filed and sanded to shape. The roof of the cruiser is a separate piece, glued on top with the clerestory a piece glued on to that. Leaving the bottom open, being a waterline model, means it can be cast in one piece. This one will be suitable for any scene, from harbour to canal cruiser.
The wheelhouse of the lobster boat is done in styrene and will be an open topped piece of cast resin with a separate roof. Then separate floors are cast to pop in underneath on both boats.
Various detailing parts will then be done in white metal and photo-etched portholes will finish them off nicely.
The 50p piece gives some scale, especially to the 6 spoke ship's wheel in brass. This will possibly be cast integral with the resin casting as it's too fine to put a spigot on, without it all falling apart. A p/e ring of brass or n/s will be on the fret to finish it off.
The hulls will now be detailed with rubbing strakes, stem posts, etc., which will stop them looking so toylike.
Nev will have these in painted master form at a show on 13th September.
Sunday, 10 August 2014
Water, water, everywhere...
We knew the weather was a bit rough on Friday. It had started raining at 1pm and then the sky turned to lead, everywhere. Distant tree boundaries in this flat landscape became obscured in the entire 360 degree panorama and down it came. A vertical fog of the hardest rain I've seen since my days in Germany, where rain even harder was a commonplace, but lasted rarely longer than half an hour, when it would just turn off and an hour later the streets were magically dry.
But on Friday, it just went on and on and on. It stopped for a while at 11pm, then begun again at 3am and finally stopped at about 5 or 6am.
My wife called me out of bed at 8 to see what had happened.
This had happened whilst we slept fitfully.
But on Friday, it just went on and on and on. It stopped for a while at 11pm, then begun again at 3am and finally stopped at about 5 or 6am.
My wife called me out of bed at 8 to see what had happened.
This had happened whilst we slept fitfully.
This is not a lake, it's a sheep field. Part of the water on the right is a dyke about 12 feet wide and 8 feet deep. It's in there somewhere. Part of a "critical" drainage system in the Fens designed to keep us safe. Pumped, sluiced, damned, monitored and controlled at every minute of the day. To drain and keep drained land owned by some huge corporations. Otherwise we'd be Somerset.
Here is the same dyke that I recently showed empty and inhabited by bamboo-like grasses waving in the sunshine.
Last week it was empty.
By 9am on Saturday we noticed the level was rising, despite the day being glorious breezy sunshine. I removed my car just in time. Fortunately it has a highish exhaust outlet and by driving VERY slowly outwards, I escaped, to park it outside the landlord's house at the farm, high and dry. There it remains as , although the levels with 2 days of concerted drainage channel digging and borrowed pumps and hours of sweeping and even shovelling the water over the crown of the lane to the same landlord's field which is lower than us and un-waterlogged, we have managed to stabilise the level, but not before the house was flooded. Due to the lopsided attitude of the old (1812) house the left corner of the lounge is sufficiently lower than the rest to make for a 2 square yard droop in which 4" of water came up under the already broken concrete floor.
By about 5pm today with the help of some of the son-in-law's cycling friends, we got the level down to where the house is now without loose water and may dry out, but the rest of the drive and front garden goes half way up our Wellies. The dyke is now about 6" down and the man from the Inland Drainage Board assures us we won't believe the speed with which the big pumps at Smeeth Road and St. Germans will drop it still further. But at nightfall, there was no evidence of that speed in any respect. St. Germans has been recently rebuilt with pumps that can shift 3990 tonnes of water a minute! He also told us that that much rain, measured at 4-5", dumps 500 tons of water per acre, only half of which the soil can cope with.
And this is mid Summer!
Wednesday, 6 August 2014
I'm an artist...dammit!...
No I'm not, I'm an illustrator and modelmaker and they are crafts with a wee bit of the art about them, BUT the above excuse is what I use, to do what I feel the need for, when I feel the need.
As if to follow from yesterday's post, I needed a break from the endless slot car masters( they all have Miliput setting currently), so I drew up the little cruiser from a couple of posts back and dragged out the trusty Black and Decker bandsaw and cut some Ureol, the slightly better grade stuff, because this is for my best customer.
The cutting off of the top bit of block gives me a perfect fit for the deck and enough thickness to file the fairly generous camber to it. It'll then get stuck back on to give me a hollow shell, once the hull is shaped and thinned finally. As a waterline model there's no point in wasting resin.
The stern block then goes in and gets its camber filed on and finally, the clerestory cabin roof, cut here from an offcut.
As ever, it'll be the fiddly bits that take the real time.
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